vintage halloween costumes

in case you are wondering what we're dressing as this halloween -- the mister and i will be at our bi-monthly dance club downtown donning these costumes from the 1920's.  he'll have to be a bit more careful with items of this vintage.  the pierrot blouse had a pair of matching pants back in the day but let's just say the dance party was in full swing last year when wardrobe malfunctions ensued.  this charming little neck ruff belongs to a separate clown costume, but i think it would make an adorable head piece for the evening.

have fun out there tonight and be safe!

happy halloween!

halloween is a holiday near to dear to my heart for many reasons.  what's not to love about gorging on candy and playing dress up?  several years ago i became obsessed with crepe paper costumes, which was all the rage for children and adults throughout the 20th century.  the dennison manufacturing company, later to become avery dennison (of school and office supply fame), published numerous how to manuals ranging from crepe paper costume making to decorating with crepe paper.  researching and collecting these delightful bits of vintage ephemera led me to discover the wonderful world of halloween, circa 1920's and 30's:

i was fortunate enough to get my hands on these lovely bound editions of weldon's fancy dress, which remain some of the most cherished pieces in my collection.  these were printed in england during the 1920's.  the costumes are sold in pieces and assembled at home, much like predecessors to our modern day costumes in a bag.  i particularly adore all the colours used and the pierrot costume with the eye and lip print -- how decidedly schiaparelli!  a few of the costumes are quite controversial, as we see below with the "ku-klux klan for boys 8-16 years ", black face, and bizzare chinese clown examples -- surely a reminder of how far we've come!

military influence on fashion, WWI (part two)

i've excavated my archives and photographed a few of my favourite pieces from the time period discussed below.  every garment posted is part of my wardrobe rotation -- and every time these lovely ladies see the light of day, people are astonished to hear their story (and age!) since the styles are surprisingly fashion foward.  below is a woman named agnes bickel on her wedding day, 1922:

here is the wedding suit, a delightful creation of the darkest blue wool with exquisite hand embroidery, tassels, and asymmetrical cummerbund belt closure.

black wool walking suit with incredible embroidered petal detail.  labelled "hamburger's, los angeles, cal".  hamburger's department store opened on 8th and broadway in 1908 and was celebrated as the "biggest department store in town".

charming blue wool coat with teal contrast, trimmed with celluloid buttons large and small.

whew!  taking military button trim to an extreme with this black wool walking suit jacket that would take the wearer ages to close.  luckily, it looks equally stunning worn open.  labelled "exclusive wearing apparel, the stern and mann co., the woman's store, canton, ohio".

lastly, it is not uncommon to find these walking suit jackets are lined with vibrant patterned silks, intentionally done to offset the understated exteriors.  unfortunately, many of these extraordinary jacket linings were constructed of weighted silk, which disintegrates rapidly even under the most favourable storage conditions.

military influence on fashion, WWI (part one)

a design project i've recently been assigned had me contemplating one of my favourite (but sadly neglected) periods in fashion, the late 1910's and early 1920's.  when considering military inspiration in fashion, we've yet to see an era that changed the way we dress as substantially as world war I.  for the first time in history, women began working outside the home in droves; they supported the war effort by entering the navy and the red cross.  a need in the workplace also arose from the absence left by enlisted men, forcing women to abandon domestic work for postal work and administrative tasks.  the police even began to accept women for positions.  these catalogue pages ranging from 1918-1921 clearly illustrates the impact of these changes in society, creating a high demand for practicality which emerged here and still remains a staple nearly a century later.

notice the use of details directly derived from military uniforms -- soutache, military braiding, button trims, and belts with buckles.  these techniques of decorating garments evolved with the introduction of more subdued colours coupled with the lack of jewellry.  the trend stemming from necessity extends beyond the conclusion of the Great War in 1918 and on into the early 1920's.

caring for your vintage treasures

taking good care of your vintage and antique garments is a must, whether it be a fragile beaded 1920's dress or your favourite 1950's day dress.  after all, if countless hours (and at times, dollars) are spent in the acquisition of these goods, you might as well, right? 

1.  perfume, deodorant, and lotion are harmful to older garments and certain materials, such as silk.  of course, perspiration can cause antique fabric to deteriorate rapidly as well, so underarm shields can be basted in to protect the garment.  this rule applies depending on the age of a garment; such precautions needn't be taken when donning day clothing of the 1960's.

2.  always choose jewellry and accessories wisely!  fabrics like lace, net, and chiffon will snag easily so use caution when wearing bracelets, necklaces, and rings.  being aware of your surroundings is also advisable. 

3.  detergents such as biz or oxyclean can be a lifesaver in removing that stubborn stain, but always test a small area prior to cleaning, since older dyes can prove to be unstable.  soak items in a gentle detergent, do not use bleach.  garments that are sturdier cotton can sometimes be machine washed on the gentle cycle, then air dried.  avoid using dryers.

4.  heavy, sheer, and bias cut items should never be stored hanging up.  some fabrics are just not sturdy enough to support the embellishments and bias cuts can get stretched out.  it is also unwise to hang articles made of jersey, as they can develop hanger marks that will be impossible to remove.  gently folding or rolling pieces in a clean white sheet or acid free tissue paper is your best bet.

5. when in doubt, ask questions!  don't be afraid to quiz your dry cleaner on their experience in handling vintage clothing.  visit vintage clothing fairs and shops and get to know a few dealers.  innumerable sources local to your area -- trustworthy dry cleaners, alterations, and repair referrals can often stem from these relationships.

learning proper wear and care methods will ensure that you and your coveted fashions stay together for many years to come! 

vintage embroidery

embroidery is a fun way to liven up any textile.  transfer kits depicting floral motifs, flapper girls, and 18th century dames were quite popular in the 1920's.  this was and still remains a wonderful option to add your personal touch to any piece.  below are a few vintage examples of all the eye catching items that originate from a transfer kit:

smoking flapper pillow case, circa 1920's.  this design was most likely pre-printed on the fabric and then hand painted and embroidered at home.

charming mint green cotton batiste apron with southern belle embroidery, circa 1920's.

1920's pink cotton dressing gown with asymmetrical floral embroidery.

transfers, like these by butterick from 1945, can be utilised to add a sense of whimsy to linens for the home.  mid century examples such as these frolicking tea sets can still be found at flea markets and online at a minimal cost.

if you desire something a little more custom, drawing out your design on transfer paper is an excellent method to developing stellar results.  i made this embroidered and appliqued piece for this simple garment, creating a much greater visual impact.  the work only took roughly one evening to achieve.

archer girl embroidered wool applique with heart shaped pocket.

the next time you are seeking something to jazz up anything -- give the dying art of embroidery a hand!