the ubiquitous cloche hat

the ubiquitous cloche is a hat that remains stylish after decades, first gaining widespread attention for being the preferred headgear of the newly independent 1920's woman. the word cloche has its origins in french, meaning bell -- and what an appropriate name it is for this bell shaped accessory. this millinery jewel that was popularised by flappers emerged from close fitting toque hats of the 1910's. these hats underwent an evolution during the decade to what we associate with the iconic cloche hat -- fitted with a deep crown and a miniscule or non-existent brim. the depth at which the hat was worn required the wearer to develop a nose-in-the-air, haughty posture, which exemplified 1920's elegance.

1920's cloche with colourful floral soutache and gold bouillon trim

1920's wide brimmed cloche with silk, felt, and yarn trim

the cloche hat underwent a resurgence in popularity during the 1960's and 1970's, remaining an appreciated style and instant classic today.

1920's day dresses

morning (not to be confused with mourning), or house dresses, were common articles of daytime attire for doing housework and chores. as time marches on, technology allows us to achieve tasks with little effort and minimal soiling, thus contributing to the extinction of activity specific clothing. gone are the house dresses of yesteryear, with play clothing following a similar fate. i'd like to pay homage to these humble frocks that played a unique role in history yet aren't photographed or appreciated quite enough:

pink and green plaid cotton dress

this homemade creation is by no means a masterpiece in construction, but the print is astounding

pink floral cotton dress: love, love, love the overlapping petals and double collar

incredible deco cretonne dress with zigzag dropped waist

this clever design gives the illusion of a dress with apron

"the national" money-saving style book, spring & summer 1921

bathing beauties

historically, bathing (or sea bathing) has its origins not in leisure, but in health. submerging the body in salt water was believed to possess therapeutic qualities, comparable to visiting a sauna or a health spa. the act of bathing evolves into the fashionable bathing beauty of the 19th century. bathing beauty contests became common spectacles on boardwalks across america throughout the 20th century. parades of unmarried young women in bathing costumes garnered much protest from conservative groups at the time, but these early beauty contests left a lasting impact on society today, as the blueprint for the miss america pageant.

bathing costume, 1910's

bathing costume with floral appliques + scalloped hem, 1920's

bathing costume with green embroidery + scalloped hem, 1920's

bathing costume with attached belt, 1920's

bathing costume with blue insets, 1920's

bathing costume with red deco monogram, 1920's

all the above bathing costumes would have been donned with matching bloomers, stockings, and bathing shoes. unfortunately, my dress form does not accommodate pants, so only the tunics are displayed. of course, when heading to the beach, let's not forget the water wings and parasol.

novelty prints

i'll be the first to admit that i've numerous weaknesses. sometimes that quick drink with friends on a wednesday night turns into four or five all too quickly. although i try my darnedest to eat organic, macrobiotic, and whatnot, a deep fried ball of macaroni will inevitably slip through the cracks. i would list novelty prints amongst my worst vices; it matters not whether the purchase is vintage, new, or for a child a quarter my size -- if i spot the print that makes my heart squeal "BUT IT'S GOT KITTENS!!!!" that textile is going home with me, going home and doomed to spend eternity in the shadows of my bulging closet.

clearly, the hoarding dilemma remains my cross to bear, but i have a sneaking suspicion i'm not the only one. who with a pulse can NOT smile at the sight of a jeremy scott coat printed with books or a 1930's dress with scotty dogs? some of my all time favourites include 1940's garments of printed rayon. the bleakness of the second world war produced some of the most marvellously whimsical and imaginative textile designs to ever grace clothing. i'm still kicking myself for not purchasing that 40's pink rayon dress printed with oversized flies -- after half a decade! but alas, you know what they say -- focus on the now. so, with this in mind, i present to you a few of my beloveds...

late 1920's balloon + confetti print cotton day dress

1920's blouse printed with athletic flappers in exotic locales

1940's umbrella print rayon capelet

vintage halloween costumes

in case you are wondering what we're dressing as this halloween -- the mister and i will be at our bi-monthly dance club downtown donning these costumes from the 1920's.  he'll have to be a bit more careful with items of this vintage.  the pierrot blouse had a pair of matching pants back in the day but let's just say the dance party was in full swing last year when wardrobe malfunctions ensued.  this charming little neck ruff belongs to a separate clown costume, but i think it would make an adorable head piece for the evening.

have fun out there tonight and be safe!

happy halloween!

halloween is a holiday near to dear to my heart for many reasons.  what's not to love about gorging on candy and playing dress up?  several years ago i became obsessed with crepe paper costumes, which was all the rage for children and adults throughout the 20th century.  the dennison manufacturing company, later to become avery dennison (of school and office supply fame), published numerous how to manuals ranging from crepe paper costume making to decorating with crepe paper.  researching and collecting these delightful bits of vintage ephemera led me to discover the wonderful world of halloween, circa 1920's and 30's:

i was fortunate enough to get my hands on these lovely bound editions of weldon's fancy dress, which remain some of the most cherished pieces in my collection.  these were printed in england during the 1920's.  the costumes are sold in pieces and assembled at home, much like predecessors to our modern day costumes in a bag.  i particularly adore all the colours used and the pierrot costume with the eye and lip print -- how decidedly schiaparelli!  a few of the costumes are quite controversial, as we see below with the "ku-klux klan for boys 8-16 years ", black face, and bizzare chinese clown examples -- surely a reminder of how far we've come!

vintage embroidery

embroidery is a fun way to liven up any textile.  transfer kits depicting floral motifs, flapper girls, and 18th century dames were quite popular in the 1920's.  this was and still remains a wonderful option to add your personal touch to any piece.  below are a few vintage examples of all the eye catching items that originate from a transfer kit:

smoking flapper pillow case, circa 1920's.  this design was most likely pre-printed on the fabric and then hand painted and embroidered at home.

charming mint green cotton batiste apron with southern belle embroidery, circa 1920's.

1920's pink cotton dressing gown with asymmetrical floral embroidery.

transfers, like these by butterick from 1945, can be utilised to add a sense of whimsy to linens for the home.  mid century examples such as these frolicking tea sets can still be found at flea markets and online at a minimal cost.

if you desire something a little more custom, drawing out your design on transfer paper is an excellent method to developing stellar results.  i made this embroidered and appliqued piece for this simple garment, creating a much greater visual impact.  the work only took roughly one evening to achieve.

archer girl embroidered wool applique with heart shaped pocket.

the next time you are seeking something to jazz up anything -- give the dying art of embroidery a hand!

what's old is new again

we'll begin our vintage remodeled journey with this page out of a 1920's catalogue, featuring sweaters with a sport or collegiate slant:

why should being well versed in the history of fashion be important to us in this day and age? well, the answer is quite simple -- historical fashion influences are everywhere around us, and arming yourself with this knowledge can prove to be instrumental in a successful career as a designer. the reach of yesteryear's styles transcends price point, gender, and category. while on a trip to the fashion forward los angeles boutique opening ceremony, i noticed numerous examples in which historical or ethnic influences were clear influences. these modern, fresh, and pricey pieces bear a striking similarity to vintage styles. this is yet another reason why you may wish to seek out their vintage counterparts; in addition to the less hefty price tag, superior materials and workmanship are often used.

below is an original 1920's cardigan sweater with sailor collar and matching belt:

compare that with a very similar sweater by abercrombie and fitch:

here is a classic style that seems to be reproduced every season in some capacity -- the shawl collar cardigan sweater, which is a design derived from 1920's knitwear, as evidenced by the advertisement above:

cardigan by haversack, sold at opening ceremony

the use of ideas past extends to accessories and footwear as well. the borrowing of design from these current opening ceremony shoes to these late 1950's play shoes is obvious:

the difference in cost? oh, just over $300...proof it pays to know your stuff. whether you enjoy shopping second hand or for modern styles, having an awareness of the past gives you a tremendous advantage. happy shopping!