vintage pattern lending library

if sewing and vintage styles are two topics that tickle your fancy, i would highly recommend you familirise yourself with the vintage pattern lending library. their mission is to preserve and archive vintage patterns ranging from the 1840's to the 1950's, making for easier access and use. reproductions of these vintage patterns can also be purchased through the website. please visit the vpll and lend some support to an organisation that is aiding in preserving our past.

the ubiquitous cloche hat

the ubiquitous cloche is a hat that remains stylish after decades, first gaining widespread attention for being the preferred headgear of the newly independent 1920's woman. the word cloche has its origins in french, meaning bell -- and what an appropriate name it is for this bell shaped accessory. this millinery jewel that was popularised by flappers emerged from close fitting toque hats of the 1910's. these hats underwent an evolution during the decade to what we associate with the iconic cloche hat -- fitted with a deep crown and a miniscule or non-existent brim. the depth at which the hat was worn required the wearer to develop a nose-in-the-air, haughty posture, which exemplified 1920's elegance.

1920's cloche with colourful floral soutache and gold bouillon trim

1920's wide brimmed cloche with silk, felt, and yarn trim

the cloche hat underwent a resurgence in popularity during the 1960's and 1970's, remaining an appreciated style and instant classic today.

1920's day dresses

morning (not to be confused with mourning), or house dresses, were common articles of daytime attire for doing housework and chores. as time marches on, technology allows us to achieve tasks with little effort and minimal soiling, thus contributing to the extinction of activity specific clothing. gone are the house dresses of yesteryear, with play clothing following a similar fate. i'd like to pay homage to these humble frocks that played a unique role in history yet aren't photographed or appreciated quite enough:

pink and green plaid cotton dress

this homemade creation is by no means a masterpiece in construction, but the print is astounding

pink floral cotton dress: love, love, love the overlapping petals and double collar

incredible deco cretonne dress with zigzag dropped waist

this clever design gives the illusion of a dress with apron

"the national" money-saving style book, spring & summer 1921

bathing beauties

historically, bathing (or sea bathing) has its origins not in leisure, but in health. submerging the body in salt water was believed to possess therapeutic qualities, comparable to visiting a sauna or a health spa. the act of bathing evolves into the fashionable bathing beauty of the 19th century. bathing beauty contests became common spectacles on boardwalks across america throughout the 20th century. parades of unmarried young women in bathing costumes garnered much protest from conservative groups at the time, but these early beauty contests left a lasting impact on society today, as the blueprint for the miss america pageant.

bathing costume, 1910's

bathing costume with floral appliques + scalloped hem, 1920's

bathing costume with green embroidery + scalloped hem, 1920's

bathing costume with attached belt, 1920's

bathing costume with blue insets, 1920's

bathing costume with red deco monogram, 1920's

all the above bathing costumes would have been donned with matching bloomers, stockings, and bathing shoes. unfortunately, my dress form does not accommodate pants, so only the tunics are displayed. of course, when heading to the beach, let's not forget the water wings and parasol.

novelty prints

i'll be the first to admit that i've numerous weaknesses. sometimes that quick drink with friends on a wednesday night turns into four or five all too quickly. although i try my darnedest to eat organic, macrobiotic, and whatnot, a deep fried ball of macaroni will inevitably slip through the cracks. i would list novelty prints amongst my worst vices; it matters not whether the purchase is vintage, new, or for a child a quarter my size -- if i spot the print that makes my heart squeal "BUT IT'S GOT KITTENS!!!!" that textile is going home with me, going home and doomed to spend eternity in the shadows of my bulging closet.

clearly, the hoarding dilemma remains my cross to bear, but i have a sneaking suspicion i'm not the only one. who with a pulse can NOT smile at the sight of a jeremy scott coat printed with books or a 1930's dress with scotty dogs? some of my all time favourites include 1940's garments of printed rayon. the bleakness of the second world war produced some of the most marvellously whimsical and imaginative textile designs to ever grace clothing. i'm still kicking myself for not purchasing that 40's pink rayon dress printed with oversized flies -- after half a decade! but alas, you know what they say -- focus on the now. so, with this in mind, i present to you a few of my beloveds...

late 1920's balloon + confetti print cotton day dress

1920's blouse printed with athletic flappers in exotic locales

1940's umbrella print rayon capelet